Creating a gown like the Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown, especially with some customizations, is a rewarding sewing project. Here's a detailed sewing pattern guide based on the project you described
Pattern: Friday Pattern Company Wilder Gown (or a similar dress pattern)
Fabric: Soft, drapey fabric like rayon (Art Gallery fabric as mentioned)
Sewing Tools: Sewing machine, rotary cutter, cutting mat, pattern weights, fabric scissors, pins, measuring tape, marking tools, seam ripper, elastic, iron, and ironing board.
Bodice: Use the bodice section of the Wilder Gown pattern.
Skirt: Modify the skirt section for a mini/midi length by using a tiered design. Create two tiers:
Top Tier: Narrower and shorter rectangles.
Bottom Tier: Rectangles approximately one-third wider and slightly longer than the top tier.
Pre-Wash and Press: Pre-wash your fabric to prevent shrinkage and press it to remove wrinkles.
Pattern Placement: Be mindful of the directional print on your fabric. Ensure all pieces are cut with the print in the correct orientation.
Bodice Pieces: Cut out the bodice pieces from your fabric according to the pattern instructions.
Top Tier: Cut two rectangles (width based on desired fullness and length based on mini/midi length).
Bottom Tier: Cut two rectangles, making them wider and slightly longer than the top tier.
Sew Bodice Pieces: Assemble the bodice by following the pattern instructions. Attach the front and back bodice pieces at the shoulder seams.
Raglan Sleeves: Attach the raglan sleeves to the bodice. Sew the side seams of the bodice.
Neckline: Finish the neckline according to the pattern, either by using a facing or a binding technique.
Assemble Skirt Tiers: Sew the side seams of the top and bottom tiers to create two continuous loops of fabric.
Gathering: Gather the top edge of the bottom tier and attach it to the bottom edge of the top tier. Repeat the gathering process to attach the top tier to the bodice.
Measure Elastic: Measure a piece of elastic around your high waist, ensuring it's snug but comfortable. Add a seam allowance.
Attach Elastic: Sew the ends of the elastic together to form a circle. Quarter the elastic and bodice, then pin the elastic to the inside of the bodice at the quarter points. Stretchthe elastic evenly as you sew it to the dress using a zigzag stitch. This will pull in the waist and give the dress a more fitted look.
Check Length: Try on the dress to check the length, making adjustments if necessary. Remember that adding the elastic will shorten the dress slightly.
Hemming: Once you're satisfied with the fit, hem the dress to your desired length. A 1-inch hem is recommended to finish the bottom edge neatly.
Press: Give the entire dress a final press to ensure all seams lie flat and the dress looks polished.
Final Thoughts:
This dress pattern is versatile and can be adapted in many ways. You can experiment with different skirt lengths, tiers, or even create a matching top. The choice of fabric, especially something soft and drapey like rayon, plays a crucial role in how the dress turns out. The elastic waist option adds shape and ensures the dress doesn't overwhelm a smaller frame, making it a great choice for petite figures.
If you enjoyed making this dress, consider trying out other variations, such as a longer version or using different fabrics for a new look. The Wilder Gown pattern also allows for making tops, so you can experiment with creating a matching set.